Sunday, May 6, 2012

Twende nyumbani



Hamjambo followers,

I know it's been an overload of late but this will be short ad sweet. There isn't really much to say, just that I'm happy to be coming home to see most if not all of you. Until then....

SWOD is nyumba which means "house"

Tutaonana,

-Ian

My last letter

This one is actually written to all my dear friends that I made while traveling East Africa with the School of Field Studies:

Hamjambo wanafunzi,

After thinking all day about everything that is about to happen, I'm really not sure what to say. There really are no words to describe the connection that we have made with each other over the course of the semester. I've laughed with you all, almost cried with you, hugged you and chilled with most if not all of you. I really hate thinking about us breaking up the band like this, but to be honest, this is only the beginning. Leaving Africa will probably be harder than I'm expecting, but after this trip, I'll be able to look back on this safari with some major pride. I know you all probably think I'm full of crap, but you guys are some of the greatest people I've ever met, and I couldn't have asked for a better family abroad. I really hope that you guys learned as much from me as I did from each and every one of you. I want to be able to see each other again so... we're just gonna have to make that happen. From the first encounters at the airport, to the switch, to these final days, I just wanna say from the pit of my stomach and the bottom of my heart that I sincerely love all of you like family.

On that note, I want to extend an invitation to join me in Africa when I come back in the next five years. I have some really lofty goals, but if I'm able to make it happen, I want you guys to be some part of it.I also hope with the deepest of hopes that we can all meet up again sometime. I can't name all the things I'll miss about each of you or I'll tear up but.. lets just say I'll really miss you guys. ALOT. It'll be really weird being alone again, and I'm not looking forward to that. One thing I am looking forward to is keeping in contact so that we can get through this experience together. To the end.

Wanafunzi! What makes the grass grow?!

Sincerely,
-Ian C. Easterling

Today was the best last day I could have hoped for. Look out, America. I'm comin' home.

SWOD is kwaheri which means "good-bye"

Goodbye to all the faculty and staff here at the SFS East Africa Program. I know ya'll probably wont read this, but I still want to give you a shout out. To the citizens of rural Africa, I'll pray for you. I hope to make an impact in both of these countries one day, not just in conservation of wildlife, but also the implementation of justice and the quality of life for your people.

Africa ni peponi. Ninataka kuondoa Africa kwa mimi. Na nitafanya.

Tutaonana,
-Ian

Data Collection, Drafts and Done

The entry will cover the entire Directed Research period, which extends from the days right after homestay until three days before we leave. We collected data in the field for nine days, in three separate study areas within the Tarangire-Manyara ecosystem. We then would spend the a week and a half with data analysis as well as the drafting of our research papers. The final product would be a presentation to the local community of the research each group, Wildlife Ecology, Wildlife Management, and Environmental Policy.

My research was done in the Wildlife Management(WM) category, specifically, I was to study the habitat preference and functional response of the large mammals between three levels of wildlife protection. The study area consisted of Lake Manyara National Park, Manyara Ranch Conservancy, and the Mto wa Mbu community area. But I won't bore you any further with the blah dee blah details. If you want to see what I did specifically, I can give you my paper or tell you about it in person.I'm just writing this entry to let you know how it went.

So... here we go. What a ride, man. Data collection was a total blast. At least for the most part.. It's kinda hard being stuck in a car with the same people every day for 9 straight days, especially when one or a few of them think that they are leaders. You know those girls that think the world revolves around them, specifically the wealthy ones. Hmm.. sounds a bit like Elon. Anyways, apparently I was stealing the show, but my partner Asha Misra and I were the most competent, collected, and connected people in the entire group. I have to thank her for that. I know that I'm pretty play it cool, but staying on task(at least with data entry) isn't my forte. Out in the field, I'm your guy though.I was spotting animals left and right, identifying and aging/sexing them. It's a ton of fun, and I wanna get really good at it by the end of this lifetime.

Manyara Ranch was actually a really cool place. What is so special about it is that livestock keeping and and wildlife conservation are both practiced there. Tourism isn't huge there at the moment, but if people hear more about it, then the local community will benefit from the protection of their animals and will still be able to look after their families. We saw a number of different animal species there, from the basic zebra, wildebeest, impala, giraffe and elephant, to the lesser known antelope such as kudu and eland. We also discovered steinbok on multiple occasions, which hadn't ever been recorded in the area. It was exciting to see how the ranch was just as effective as Lake Manyara National Park at protecting the animals I love. The park was another ball game. I was used to the area, since I had been to the park multiple times, so I was prepared to be bored out of my mind, seeing the same places with similar faces(the same animals). Boy, was I wrong. Sure the first day was kinda rough, but we got to see elephants right next to the car. It was amazing. Then, on the next two days, I got to see the famous tree-climbing lions.Granted, they weren't in trees, but they were still lions all the same. In fact, the last lion sighting was made possible by yours truly, by spotting them from a long way off. Can you tell I'm proud of that spot? We also saw klipspringer, warthog, hippo, baboons, bushbuck, Sykes' and vervet monkeys, and the ever popular waterbuck. There was also this great occasion when we almost got stuck in the mud, and we slid around like crazy. The car got really dirty ad it was pretty terrifying, but definitely exhilarating. The community area was definitely interesting. There was pretty much no wildlife, only livestock, but the rainy season definitely made it more interesting than that. We slid all over the place in the mud, and even got stuck in the soft ground up to the axle. Very interesting day to say the least, but it was a pretty good way to end it.

Analysis and drafting was a completely different animal. The frustration level I had with people was surprising, especially to me. It's amazing how people like me let others take the lead on things, and then we're the ones stuck picking up the pieces. And a word to the wise, if you're wrong, don't act like you're right. Especially if you've been wrong time and time again. If you're unsure, ask someone for help or at least do your own work to get the right answers. Some people are only quiet because they are thinking to determine the right way things need to be done. Some people spend so much time talking or trying to be in charge that they don't think. Really. It's happened a ton to me in my life
and I'm tired of being right all the time. I don't know everything, not even close, but when I open my mouth I at least know what I'm saying about whatever it is and if I don't know, I'll ask.

So that was that with that and I wrote a paper. Learned a ton about the habitat preferences of many large mammals. Here are my results: Animals that were domesticated had higher average niche widths than wildlife species, meaning that they were generalist species. I know, I know, duhhh. But here comes the interesting part. Giraffe had one of the largest niche widths as strict browsers, and all the monkeys, namely baboons, had really small ones. I also determined that large mammals that were found in both LMNP and MR preferred more open habitats in the park and more covered habitats in the ranch. That means, that they are selecting habitat that is easier to conceal themselves from hunters in the ranch where they are being heavily poached.  This is a big step in the overall research for a few reasons. One, because data shows that Manyara Ranch is effective in supporting high biodiversity and density of wildlife while still supporting local livelihoods. This means that it is a successful conservation strategy and management method. Second, behavioral and habitat preference results show that animals are being illegally hunted in this ranch, and therefore better enforcement is necessary in order to keep Manyara Ranch in top form. This may in turn create more jobs to stimulate the local economy, while still maintaining the current practices such as pastoralism. If the area becomes a hotspot for wildlife, tourism will then factor in as a driver in the upkeep of the ranch and eventually the local economy. If areas like these become successful for both conservation and the local people, then it is likely that more will be set up, preserving the dispersal area around Lake Manyara National Park, and overall benefiting the Tarangire-Manyara ecosystem as a whole. BOO YA!

Is that not crazy? I had no idea the implications that one little study could have on the benefits of East African wildlife. However, I doubt that people can make the assumption that it'l work, so I wanna do some more research on it. It's become really interesting to me and I want to know the end result of the 5 year research plan from SFS. Hopefully the local people act on these results and are able to make it better for themselves. As a foreigner, I can't just come in and tell them that they are required to protect the wildlife, it's their wildlife, but I don't want Africa to end up like America, with a tiny fraction of the biodiversity that once existed there. Therefore, I hope that they act accordingly and help themselves and their wildlife.

The presentation was an interesting day. Definitely a long day. I loved hearing all the results of my friends' work. There were some cool projects. I didn't really have anything fancy to wear, so I wore the blazer that I had made at the tailor. It's a pretty snazzy jacket if I do say so myself. I plan on wearing it a ton at home, probably not to formal events, but definitely around. We'll see how it goes over with the mother unit. My time in Africa is winding down, and as I sit here typing this entry, I can tell you from the bottom of my heart that I'll miss it here....

But the sappy stuff is for tomorrow's entry.

SWOD today is kidogo which means "little" or "small"

Tutaonana everybody. I'll see you soon.

-Ian

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

Now you just have to ask yourself one question. Do I feel lucky?

Hamjambo marafiki na jamaa!

Pole sana for not writing sooner, I've been crazy busy and tired, and even a little sick at one point. Bare with me while I catch you up on homestay action from a couple weeks ago.

So homestay was a complete blast! My friend Katie and I stayed with a family belonging to the Iraqw tribe. Now I wasn't expecting much, my loyalty is to the Maasai as far as my vote for coolest African culture, but I dare say I had a better time this trip. Now maybe dressing up for Easter was dumb, I thought they maybe might go to church but... ends up my family didn't. Tip of the Day: always bring a change of clothes, especially if it's raining and the house you're staying in is surrounded by a mud pit.

Anyways, we arrived and met our family, which consisted of Bura(not the askari), his wife Patrice, and their sons, Patrick and Edwin. Patrick was 17 and Edwin was around 11. Thank goodness that Patrick spoke English too, it helped tremendously. We started the day with a cup of chai, and I swear it was basically hot southern sweet tea. Definitely brought me back. Then we proceeded to sit around, until an older man came into the house, a friend of the family, and wanted to show us an old Iraqw tradition. Well, he wanted to show Katie the old Iraqw tradition... Sorry Katie, but I could tell all those dudes were in to you. So the tradition is basically counting stones. Taught by his father who was taught by his father before him, the man sits down on a mat, burns some incense, and counts. He keeps counting and counting, and then is able to tell something about your past, your present, and your future. Basically, African Tarot cards.

As he counted we would walk in and out, either cooking or butchering the sheep for lunch. It was definitely unique, firstly because I got to touch a sheep brain, but mainly because Katie is a vegetarian/ PETA-type. You know, the ones who think it's like wrong to eat meat, at least for them to. She didn't want any part of the shoat roast in Kenya or at Moyo Hill camp, but the homestay family actually got her to help skin the sheep. And you know I just ate it up, being a carnivore and all. Oh it gets better.

We cooked and sat basically all day. I tried a bunch of stuff I never thought I would eat, including like cooked blood and sheep guts. Definitely not my favorite, but I survived. We both had our fortunes told to us, and it was scary how spot on he was. I don't think I'll tell mine to you guys over the internet, but if you wanna know it, ask me about it some time. At the end of the day, we got in the car and exchange homestay stories with the other groups, and not to brag, but I definitely think we had the best time out of any of the wanafunzi.

SWOD is jiwe which means "stone" or "rock"

Salama na tutaonana!

-Ian




Thursday, April 19, 2012

Expedition Serengeti Post 5 of 5

This was the last day in Serengeti National Park. The night was calm and peaceful. I awoke to the sound of chirping starlings. We packed up camp at about 5:30 and prepared to leave the campsite at around 7. As I soaked in the final moments at camp, the experience I had, I realized that my time here in Africa is winding down. This was the climax of my journey, and I couldn't have asked for a better one.

We had a game drive out of the park, writing down species associations on the way. My friends Sidra and Becca still hadn't seen a cheetah though, so we were on the look out. as we drove along searching for the cheetah, I observed the "Sea of Grass" and the beauty of the open space. The horizon seemed closer than it was and the clouds lined up in millions of rows, each one appearing as though painted on the sky. It was literally like driving through a painting.

On the way out I spotted a hyena family (no pun intended) laying under some bushes. Hyenas really are amazing, despite the bad rep. They plan all of their attacks using strategical moves and are caring, loving parents that are in a constant struggle with the other top predator, lions. We drove on and on until we were almost at the gate. We spotted what looked like distant lion in the grass, and I would have been happy with them being lions. Upon closer inspection by Sidra through her binoculars, we came to find out that it was actually a family of cheetahs. It was incredibly exciting that now everyone on the trip had seen one, and that we got to see a family of three was a real treat. Seven cheetahs seen at Serengeti? Not bad at all. We drove the rest of the way home with one of our cars getting in an accident. Luckily no one was hurt, but their car was apparently totaled. The SFS car barely had a scratch. You gotta love safari vehicles, man. When we arrived at camp, I was saddened but relieved and as I opened the door to my banda, I felt less restless than I had been for the past months. Now all I had left was to find out my research group and project, and to do work in that course. Then I could go home satisfied with Africa, for now at least.I then proceeded to nap off the day, my day of rest from this incredible adventure.

SWOD is "salama" which means "peace" or "peaceful"

Well... That's the end. Sorry it took so long, I'll have my homestay post and a few DR posts to write and then I'll be back on track. I hope you enjoy the writing and let me know what you wanna hear about from any of my experiences.

Tutaonana, baadaye

-Ian

Expedition Serengeti Post 4 of 5


Last night was NUTS. All sort of animals were up and causing alarm around camp. Lions were calling out by the bathrooms, leopards from the east side of camp, and a hyena was literally five meters from my tent. They were cackling, laughing and whooping all over the paddock at around 4 am. So of course I got up to look, and I saw one of them. Big, big girl hyena. It was SO awesome.

Disappointing part of this was that I tried to record their calling, but the sound of the camera recording blocked the sound of the hyenas. Disappointing.. Funny part was that everyone thought I was the one making all the noises. I'm honored that I'm authentic, but come on people. 4 in the morning? I'm not that crazy.


This morning was another interesting one. I got up after that crazy early start and went to get in the same car I was in yesterday, due to my superstitious nature. After eating breakfast, I went to get in the car and it was Sipaya and Whitney again, so I was excited to have another great day of spotting. And then another car starts rolling toward ours. Luckily the driver, Ninah, got there in time to close one of the doors and stop it from rolling. Unfortunately, it did damage the passenger door enough so that it wouldn't close. Fun stuff, man. So, lucky us, we got Nuru the mechanic as a driver and askari Bura as a copilot. It was pretty sweet.

Now on to other news. We game drove all morning and got to see Double Trouble again(pictured above). This was my third time seeing them, this time they were just chillin out with Mom on a log. I loved being able to check up on the same individual animals, namely the big cats, because it made it more exciting to see the same surroundings. The next goal, see a leopard and pray for another cheetah sighting because a few select people hadn't seen either one yet(even in Nakuru). To noone's surprise, that didn't really happen, I even started to fall asleep. That is, until we got to the hippo pool. That was a really fun time. They were everywhere, and they stunk, plus there were crocodiles. Bura, true to form, was imitating "viboko", which means hippos in Swahili, and it was pretty darn funny. Ton of baby hippos play fighting, and big adults actually fighting. It was definitely an interesting sighting. Most of the people in our car started to get in so that we could drive to the lodge, where we could eat lunch and swim, when suddenly, we heard the word "duma". Well, then everybody (myself included) jumped out of the car with our cameras to go take this picture. Talk about an odd species association. There was an adult cheetah just hanging out by the hippo pool. It didn't stay long, but it did give some people their first cheetah sighting and me a few good pictures.



After a few hours of relaxation later, we started game driving until we had to go back to camp. This time, we HAD to find a leopard. And we did. It was of course awesome. We first noticed a car parked in front of us on the road. The elderly people in it swore they saw a leopard in the grass so we, of course, decided to look. Patrick was the first to see the tail, and then it flicked again. This was such a tease at first, I thought that was all we were going to see of that leopard. We scanned the grass again, for a good ten minutes, before I saw a flock of birds fly out from under a distant tree. I made a verbal note of it, but kept searching nearer to our car. Then my friend confirmed the sighting. There she was, sitting on a termite mound looking out into the distant grassland. We quietly creeped, as well as we could in a car, perpendicular to her and waited and watched. Cars started coming in, including some of our own, and the leopardess started waltzing toward the road. She crossed right in front of one of our cars, and walked to another termite mound on the other side. Suddenly, she stops and looks into the distance again. This time, she crouched suddenly and continued to stare. At first it looked like stalking, until she turned tail and fled back across the road and eventually across a river. A large troop of baboons were coming  toward us, and considering that male baboons are on record as leopard killers, I'm glad she managed to get away. However, it would fulfill the need to see a hunt/kill. Just sayin.

We drove home, passing a hippo lumbering out of the water and a few antelope, excited about another terrific day and stoked for the drive home (mainly so that I could shower).

TO BE CONTINUED...

SWOD is "kisu" which means "knife"

Sunday, April 15, 2012

Expedition Serengeti Post 3 of 5

Hamjambo marafiki!

DAY 3

Last night blew! It rained enough that our tent started to leak at the corners. Plan of Action: get our stuff off the ground and go sleep somewhere else. So I spent my second night in Serengeti, sleep on the floor of a land cruiser,squished between the seats, on nothing but a sleeping pad and covered with a shuka. It's safe to say I was sore the next morning.

So today also was pretty crazy and lucky. The best day of game driving I've ever had. For the first part of the morning we spent our time identifying and counting birds in the grassland. After we finished that exercise, we had a game drive until lunch. This is when the stuff got nuts. So we had basically the same car as yesterday, but in addition we added Jenna (the beloved intern from Kenya. SO glad she came on Expedition, she's awesome.), Sipaya (also from Kenya, Sipaya drove the White Rhino, which carried our bags. He's an insane spotter and driver.), and Whitney, who is literally the luckiest game driver I've ever been in the same car with.

So, of course the goal was to find a cheetah, because no one had seen one close enough yet.
And we found one. It was an awesome spot, and no other cars saw it (that's the first picture I have on this entry). And then we drove on and saw another. Right next to the road. Granted there were around 30 cars there as it was trying to cross the road, but it was still exciting. I started feeling bad after a few minutes though, as cars upon cars poured in and the cheetah couldn't cross the road. It's tail was flicking in frustration as it walked ever onward along the road. Eventually all of the SFS cars that had seen it had had enough and left, but I don't know whatever happened to her.

We then drove on to the Serengeti Visitor's Center, where we saw a ton of rock hyrax and two types of mongoose (dwarf and banded, for those animal people that care). I also watched a 30 minute documentary on Serengeti three times through. I never though I'd miss Animal Planet in Africa but... We then would get a lecture on the challenges of managing Serengeti National Park from one of the wardens. It was really informative and I am definitely interested in the behind the scenes stuff.
We would then go on a second game drive. Insanity ensued.

Jenna left our car for this drive, but we still had plenty of luck even with her gone. After driving for a little bit, we saw the first leopard of the Serengeti. It was a good distance away, chillin in a tree. I don't think I've seen something look so relaxed. As we drove along, we passed by the area where we saw the first cheetah of the day. In the distance, ANOTHER CHEETAH!. I couldn't believe our luck. Three cheetahs in one day? Absurd. Anyways, it was another good sighting when there was no one around, so I felt no guilt about my excitement. As we drove on, another highlight was seeing a serval after I said that doing so was our next goal. It was so funny because it was being chased by a mongoose (white-tailed this time) and we barely got a good sighting of it, let alone a picture.


The next sighting was very near and dear to my heart. We pulled up on a small group of cars as we headed back to camp and there were three lions there. It was the radio collared female from the first day, and the two cubs were there too. It was such a blast man, I've been more content only a few times in my life. Got plenty of photos and videos of them playing and they are great. They even walked up to our car, which was SO awesome. Firstly they are totally cute, second, they were just hilarious. I decided to nickname them Double Trouble, for obvious reasons, and was hoping to see them again at some point. I felt so blessed to witness that whole moment and realized how great the day had been. It may have been one of the single greatest days of my life and I don't regret the lack of sleep from the crazy night.

TO BE CONTINUED...

SWOD: usiku which means "night"

-Ian